TigerShark® PlusEngineered with all the advanced features of the TigerShark, TigerShark Plus offers a preset seven-hour cleaning cycle and optional hand-held wireless remote control. It will maneuver around the pool with ease or spot clean when a full cleaning cycle is not required.

From Hayward a trusted, well-known company, the TigerShark uses less energy than pressure or suction cleaners and has been selling worldwide for 40 years—a true testimony to its outstanding performance and track record. Easy to use and operate, all you do is take it out of the box, plug it in and you're ready to go—no additional tools required. It's even equipped with a convenient shut-off function, automatically powering down at the end of its three-hour cleaning cycle. Utilizing its on-board smart computer, it calculates the size of your pool for a programmed energy efficient cleaning pattern for a spotless clean pool…every time. This advanced portable cleaner brushes and scrubs while it vacuums reaching everywhere in your pool including the bottom, sides and steps. It also features an easy to clean reinforced cartridge element, which means no more bags—yet another eco-friendly attribute. As an additional safety measure, all TigerShark's feature a 24 DC volt, energy efficient motor.

What's the correct way to close my swimming pool for the winter? Really glad you asked! here is an up to date recommendation from us here at E&L...

If you can't use your pool during winter months, protect your investments and shut down the pool completely. Closing your pool properly makes next season's start up easy and avoids time-consuming clean up and costly repairs.

WINTERIZING YOUR POOL
1) Bring a water sample to ENGLISH & LEPAGE to find out what is needed to balance your water and insure there are no irregularities.
a) Adjust the alkalinity to 80-150 ppm.
b) Adjust pH to 7.2-7.6
c) Adjust calcium hardness to 150-280 ppm

2) Add a sequestrian agent (Scale Inhibitor) to guard against metal stains and 'bathtub ring' during the winter.

3) Physically clean the pool. Brush the sides down and vacuum the bottom. Clean out the skimmer basket(s) and the pump's hair trap.

4) Shock treatment (HiberShock or Smartshock) is necessary to oxidize any disolved organic material that physical cleaning and filtration could not remove. Run the pump and filter for a few hours to insure thorough distribution. For extra protection a floating chlorinator can be used.

5) Due to unpredictable Fall temperatures, we recommend that an algaecide (Banish) be used to protect the pool from algae growth. When the filtration system is not operating, algae can take over very quickly.

6) Partially drain the pool to about 3-4" below the skimmer. Drain/blowout all lines and plug outlets. Unscrew and remove directional ball from center and each outlet and plug with winterizing plug. Remove both baskets- skimmer and pump.

7) Install cover over your pool and tie-down or secure it with water bags around the full perimeter to prevent debris and wind from going under the cover. This should also help to prevent wind damage to your winter cover.

WINTERIZING YOUR FILTER
1) Drain the sand filter by opening all plugs, (as well as the two plugs on the pump) and turn the sand filter handle to winterize to aid drainage. Make sure to store plugs in a safe place-as with the pump and skimmer baskets.

2) Remove pressure guages and store inside.

3) Leave all gate valves three-quarters open (except in basement installations).

WINTERIZING YOUR HEATER
Drain and evacuate water from interior lines, refill lines with appropriate anti-freeze.

PARTIAL WINTER CLOSING
Some people prefer not to completely shut down their pool. In this case you must keep pool balanced (alka, pH and calcium) and the filtration system is kept running, even if only a few hours a day. In the event of temperatures dropping below freezing, the filtration system should be kept on full time to prevent the pipes from freezing.

What's the difference between total and free chlorine?

Total Chlorine includes both Free and Combined Chlorine. Free Chlorine is "good" chlorine that is still able to keep your pool fresh and clean. Combined Chlorine is chlorine that has used up its ability to sanitize. Too much Combined Chlorine causes eye irritation and strong pool odors. To maintain a clean and clear pool, keep the Free Chlorine in the right range. But before making any adjustments, be sure that pH and Total Alkalinity are in the ideal ranges. If the Free Chlorine is low you will need to add more.

My neighbor has these fish in her pool to keep it warm...what are they?

The fish is most likely an 'Ecosavr', a cool dispenser for another product 'Heatsavr', which is traditionally used in commercial pools with an expensive auto dispenser.
Evaporation is one of the main forms of heat loss from swimming pools and spas. 'Heatsavr' will lower humidty as well as evaporation. As a rule it takes money to buy heat, and heat to evaporate water, so slowing evaporation will lower humidity, as well as heating costs. Make sense?
Regardless whether your using cost effecient solar or paying for gas-heat, our main issues still comes back to not wanting the pool to cool down. 'Heatsavr' is an effective liquid pool cover that greatly reduces heat loss and evaporation from your pool surface, its made of simple bio-degradable ingredients (alcohol-based) that won't interfere with your water balance, works for salt pools, and is not a danger to pets or kids.
A single fish does about 400sq feet, and will last a month, making it very affordable for private pool owners of all sizes and shapes-pools not the owners ;-)

My pool has stains on the liner that I didn't have last season, what can I do?

Stainfree is an ascorbic acid product, similar to those big chewable Vitamin C tablets you get from the drugstore. The Stainfree product from Natural Chemistry is ideal for treating staining to vinyl pool liners and fiberglass pool surfaces. A safe and people friendly alternative to harsh chemicals typically used to treat stains. On the plus side, Stainfree does not create any residual phosphates in your pool water, making it an excellent stain fighter without adding food for algae.

Pool Perfect by Natural Chemistry

Pool Perfect is an all natural enzyme product that biodegrades organic contaminants to reduce maintenance and produce clear, perfect water.

Why use Pool Perfect?
- eliminates skin and eye irritation
- eliminates strong chemical odors
- no scum line
- clean pool filters
- reduced pool maintenance
- makes water feel soft and silky

HELP! My pool has gone green! What is the quickest way to clear it?

Here is an excellent treatment for a pool with bad algae bloom going on:

Step #1- Add Pool Perfect from Natural Chemistry, Wait One Hour.

Step #2- Shock with heavy chlorine (12% in liquid form), Wait Four Hours.

Step #3- Add Pool 1st Aid from Natural Chemistry, leave overnight.

Next day vacuum and backwash. RESHOCK if neccesary.


** This set of steps is an alternate treatment to an algicide and shock combination**

What do natural enzymes do for my pool water?

Enzymes are naturally occuring proteins that 'catalyse' or speed up the natural breakdown of organic materials ie: dead algae, pollen, bather wastes etc. Enzymes breakdown organic materials into smaller and smaller molecules until they are finally reduced to their elemental forms such as carbon dioxide and water. No other compound breaks down organic waste as efficiently as natural enzymes.

Powerful Water Clarifier - PowerFloc

Bioguard Power Floc

Clarifier

This product is excellent to clear excessively cloudy water after a rainstorm or a period of time when your pump wasn't running (perhaps while you were away on vacation). Very powerful flocculent Makes water clear and sparkling Settles suspended particles to bottom for removal by vacuum The greater the debris in the water, the faster it works Can be used safely in all pool types

Hot Tub Execise

The health benefits of soaking in a hot tub are many. After soaking for a few minutes, blood vessels dilate, lowering blood pressure. The water provides buoyancy, reducing your heart's workload by 10 to 20 percent. As a result, muscles relax, temporarily relieving pain. The heat causes sweating, which induces the body to get rid of toxins. And the heat and pressure from the jets raise the level of antibodies and white blood cells, promoting the healing process.

But if those health benefits aren't enough for you, consider adding exercise to your hot tub time. There are a number of simple and beneficial exercises that can be performed without much effort.

Try standing toe raises or pushes against the sides to exercise calf muscles, or tightening and relaxing the thighs. Use the water's resistance, or add resistance with your hands and push your knees apart and back together again. Do head circles and shoulder rolls and shrugs. These are also great for promoting relaxation. Put one leg forward and push down on the floor of the hot tub with your foot. Make fists and squeeze or clasp your hands in front of you and squeeze your elbows together. Practice pulling in your abdominal muscles and holding.

Perform each exercise for three seconds, and build up to ten repetitions each.

English and Lepage does not recommend you mix these ideas with alcohol, but if you choose to do so, make sure you always swim with at least ONE buddy ;-)

English and Lepage Ltd, Langley BC Pool and Spa supplies

English and Lepage also supply and install residential hot water tanks and furnaces, with fully licensed installers. We offer competive rates and quick service. English and Lepage also supply water pumps etc. for farm and industry. E&L So much more than just pool supplies. Call us for a quote at 604-533-1251. We are located at 20535B Douglas Cres. right across from Douglas park in Langley BC.

Solar Covers for your Pool - Blue or Clear?

The purpose of a solar blanket is to allow the MAXIMUM amount of sun's rays to penetrate to the greatest depths of your pool. In tests, the clear cover has been shown to be the most effective method for providing passive solar heating in your pool. Reduces Evaporation: Stopping evaporation is the way ALL solar covers keep heat in the pool. The thicker cover also provides maximum insulation value on cool days and at night.

Pool First Aid by Natural Chemistry

Combines powerful concentrated natural enzymes with a fast acting polymer clarifier for quick and easy clean-up of:

• Dead algae
• Pollen
• Oil leaks & hydraulic spills
• Antifreeze residue
• Vandalism
• High organic waste load

***Pool First Aid will quickly free clogged filters of oils and organic build-up. No other product will remove dead algae more quickly and efficiently...in most cases no back washing is required.

General Pool & Spa Chemical Levels

What are the proper chemical and mineral levels in a pool and hot tub?

Always maintain an adequate sanitizer level at all times to kill bacteria;
If Bromine is your selected sanitizer, then the ideal level is 5-10 ppm in a spa and 3-5ppm in a swimming pool;
when Chlorine is your selected sanitizer, then the ideal level is 3–5 ppm in a spa and 1.5-3ppm in a swimming pool.
Salt water pools should have a salt level of 2700ppm-3500ppm. Please refer to your owners manual for your specific salt unit.

Maintain pH level at 7.4–7.6;

Maintain Alkalinity at 125–150 ppm;

Maintain Calcium Hardness at 150–200 ppm.

The stabilizer level in pools should be 60-80 ppm

TDS should be below 1500ppm (except in salt water)

Your Pool water is precious and prevention is MUCH less work and $$ than the cure!

Solar Heat for Swimming Pools

Solar heaters are very economical and are environmentally friendly. As you know solar power is generated by the rays of the sun. The solar panels collect heat from the sun and the pool water is then warmed as it is pumped through the panels. Solar heaters can heat pool water up to the mid 80's. In areas where there is ample sunlight they can be used year round. The solar panels can also be used to cool the water by pumping the water through the panels at night.

The solar panels need to be as large as 50 -100 percent of the total pool surface area to work effectively. With the larger solar panels a larger pump may be needed to pump the water through the panels. The panels need to be attached on a deck, a roof, a rack, or on the ground. They must have direct, unobstructed sunlight from the south. Solar panels may not work for you if you don't have the right amount of space or the direct sunlight.

***Using a solar (summer) pool cover is the best way to retain the heat in your pool's water. Much of your pool's heat is lost at the surface of the water. At only seven miles per hour a breeze can allow heat to escape from the pool's water. By retaining the heat in your pool, your pool will cost much less to heat.***

Close your Pool this Winter

Closing your pool properly makes next years’ start up easy and avoids expensive clean up and repairs. If you can’t use your pool during the winter months, you should protect your investments and shut down the pool completely.
Follow This Easy Guide:
1. Bring a water sample to English & Lepage or your nearest pool dealer to find out what is needed to balance your water and insure there are no irregularities.
2. Adjust the alkalinity to 80 – 150 ppm.
3. Adjust the p.H to 7.2 – 7.6
4. Adjust calcium hardness to 150 – 280 ppm.
5. Add a sequestrian (Stain & Scale) agent to guard against metal stains and bathtub-ring during the winter.
6. Physically clean the pool. Brush the pool sides and vacuum the bottom. Clean out the skimmer basket and the pump’s hair trap. Store both the baskets.
7. Shock treatment (HiberShock) is necessary to oxidize any dissolved organic material that physical cleaning and filtration could not remove. Run the pump and filter for a few hours to insure thorough distribution. For extra protection a floating chlorinator can be used.
8. Because the fall temperatures are unpredictable, it is recommended that an algaecide (Banish) be used to protect the pool from algae growth. When the filtration system is not operating, algae can take over very quickly.
9. Partially drain the pool to about 3 - 4” below the bottom of the skimmer. Drain / blowout all lines and plug all outlets. Unscrew and remove directional ball from centre and each outlet and plug with a winterizing plug.
10. Install cover over your pool and secure it with water bags around the full perimeter to prevent debris and wind from going under the cover. The bags also prevent the cover from the wind damage.

***Some people prefer not to completely shut down their pool. In this case the filtration system is kept running, in some cases only a few hours a day. In the event of the temperature dropping below freezing, the filtration system should be kept on full time to prevent the pipes from freezing.***

WINTERIZING YOUR FILTER
1. Drain the filter by opening all plugs also the two plugs on the pump – turn handle to winterize to aid drainage. Store plugs in a safe place such as the hair and lint basket.
2. Remove the pressure gauges and store inside.
3. Leave all gate valves three quarters open (except in basement installations).

FAQs Pool Sand Filter

Why is the pressure in my sand filter so high?

High pressure typically means that the filter sand is dirty and needs backwashing. Follow the instructions for backwashing “How do I backwash my filter?” or refer to your owners manual or follow the instructions noted on the label located on the tank body.
Check to ensure that no valves are closed in the return line to the pool and that there is no blockage in the return line.
Over time, the sand in your filter can become calcified or hardened from chemical buildup. If this has occurred, you can add a degreaser to try and loosen the sand. Often if this has occurred, the sand will need to be replaced. We recommend replacing the sand every 5-7 years depending on use.

Do I have to backwash daily? How do I know when to backwash?
No, you do not have to backwash daily. Excessive backwashing is not recommended. Over time, the effectiveness of the sand bed to remove particles improves.
Backwash the filter when the pressure increases 10 psi above the pressure when it was clean.

How do I backwash my filter?
Turn the pump off.
Turn the filter valve handle to Backwash. (Run out backwash hose if applies).
Turn the pump on.
Typically it will take 2-3 minutes to backwash the debris from your filter. If your filter has a backwash sight glass, backwash until the water is clear.
Turn the pump off.
Turn the filter valve handle to Rinse. (Note: this setting is not available on all valves. If you do not have a rinse position on your valve, set the handle to Filter and restart the pump.)
Turn the pump on and rinse for 20-30 seconds. This action removes any debris trapped in the filter during backwash.
Turn the pump off.
Turn the filter valve handle to Filter and restart the pump.

Why is sand going into my pool?
The most common cause is a cracked lateral in the underdrain system. You must remove the sand from
the filter and inspect the lateral / underdrain system and replace any cracked or damaged parts.

The sand you are using may be too small, allowing it to pass through the underdrain system.
The proper grade sand is #20 silica which is .45 to .55 mm in size. Consult with your local pool dealer. In some cases it has been common for algae to be mistaken for sand coming into the pool through the return jet. To be certain it is sand, a pile will form directly underneath the jet. If there is no pile accumulated it is most likely algae. Please refer to water balancing/Algae found on our service page, on how to combat algae or contact us at the office.

Why won’t my filter keep my pool clean?
You may not be running the pump long enough. Typically you should run the pump 8-12 hrs (min.) a day or until you turn the entire volume of your pool once a day. When a problem occurs it is best to have the pool circulating 24 hours to ensure enough filtration. Most pool pumps are designed to run continuously and are energy efficient. Check your chemical balance. Out of balance water can cause cloudiness. Make sure you have the proper amount of sand in your filter. Remove the dial valve and inspect the level of sand, the sand should be 1”-2” below the bottom of the basket. Also make sure the upper standpipe and lower standpipe are connected tightly into the basket. How old is the sand? The sand should be replaced every 5-7 years to ensure proper filtration.

I have algae in my pool and my filter isn’t clearing it up, Why?
Pool Filters can not filter out live algae. The algae must be killed by super chlorinating your pool water. Once this is done the dead algae can be removed with the assistance of a flocking agent.

When the dial valve is set on filter, water is leaking out the backwash line. Why?
A small amount of debris or sand may be trapped between the diverter gasket and the valve plate. To clean the valve, push down on the valve handle while the pump is running. This will flush out the valve and usually resolve the problem. Note that when you push down on the valve handle, water will pour out of the backwash port.
If flushing the valve out does not resolve the problem, then you will need to remove the valve cover and visually inspect the diverter gasket for debris or damage. Clean valve body and diverter gasket with water or replace diverter assembly if necessary. (Please keep in mind it is recommended to always turn the pump off when changing the filter head setting. Failing to do so will result in stretching and distorting the diverter gasket, causing a leak out the backwash line).

How often does the sand need to be changed?
As preventative maintenance, we recommend replacing the sand every 5-7 years.

How do I change the sand in my filter?
Turn off the pump. Set the dial valve handle to the test or closed position (If the system is below the water level of the pool be sure to plug the skimmer/returns if necessary). Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the tank and allow it to start draining, also remove the dial valve at the tank flange (the valve will be attached by hex head bolts or a stainless steel clamp). Remove the upper diverter and basket assembly. The easiest way to remove the sand is by using a wet/dry shop vac. (Note: Place a plastic trash bag in the shop vac canister for easy disposal.) If you do not have access to a shop vac, then you must scoop the sand out of the tank. If you scoop the sand, be careful not to damage the underdrain system when you reach the bottom of the tank. We do not recommend laying the tank on its side, as this could also damage the underdrain system. Once the sand is removed, inspect stem and assembly for any cracks, be sure to check the underside of the stem. If there is any hairline cracks or broken fingers now is the time to replace them. Cover the standpipe opening, you want to be sure no sand is poured into the stem.. (Also cover the tank flange bolt holes, if applicable) Slowly pour the appropriate amount of sand into the tank. Remove the cover over the standpipe. Replace the diverter and basket assembly if applicable. Install the dial valve. If for any reason you are unable to replace the sand in your filter, Aqua-Blue has trained and qualified service technicians that will be able to this for you. In most cases it should only take 1-2 hours for this service. Sometimes having a professional do this service saves you the time and aggravation if a problem occurs.

I have very little flow back to the pool, the filter pressure is low and water is coming out of the back wash line?
The hoses are connected to the filter valve incorrectly. The three connections on the valve are labeled: PUMP, RETURN, WASTE. Make sure the hose from the pump is connected to the port marked PUMP and that the hose to the pool is connected to the port marked RETURN.


There are several positions on the filter valve. What does each position do?

Filter- Water is distributed onto the sand bed. The water flows downward through the sand bed as dirt and debris are captured by the sand. The clean water enters into the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. This clean water is pushed up the center standpipe and returned back to the pool.
Backwash- Water is directed into the center standpipe and enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. The water flows upward through the sand bed washing the dirt and debris up and out of the filter through the waste line.
Rinse- Water is distributed onto the sand bed. The water flows downward through the sand bed to settle it after backwashing. The water enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank and is pushed up the center standpipe and discharged out the waste line. (Note: This position is not found on all valves and is only used after backwashing.)
Whirlpool/Recirculate- Water flows directly through the valve and is returned back to the pool. This position is used if you do not want to circulate water into the sand bed.
Drain/Waste- Water flows directly through the valve and out the waste line. This position can also be used to vacuum heavy amounts of debris to waste.
Test- Water will not flow in or out of the valve. If pool equipment is below the water level, use this position when cleaning the hair and lint strainer on the pump. It will prevent water from flowing from the pool through the return line.
Winterize- This position lifts the diverter up from the valve plate to keep the diverter gasket from flattening out during off-season. It also allows air to enter the tank when draining.

5 Key points for Pool Happiness

KEEP IN MIND ...Each pool maintenance key is very important. Consider each key as a simple, preventive maintenance step.

CIRCULATION
Pool water must be circulated for maximum sanitizer effectiveness. The more your water is in motion, the harder it is for bacteria and algae to take hold. Debris is captured by your filter, too. The best time to circulate the water is during the day, for 10 hours or more.
(E & L recommends you run your pump and filter as a rule.)

FILTRATION
The filter is one of your most important pieces of equipment. It removes both visible debris and most microscopic matter. Generally, a filter should be backwashed (the removal of material trapped on or in the filter media) when the water pressure in the filter reaches 8 to 10 psi above normal. (Check manufacturer's guidelines.) Because backwashing does not remove oils and deeply embedded debris, every filter needs to be chemically cleaned regularly. Your BioGuard Dealer can help you establish a filter maintenance program.

CLEANING
Some swimming pools have areas with little or no circulation. This is where algae and bacteria can begin to grow. At least once a week, the walls and floor should be brushed and vacuumed to remove debris that the filter misses. Brushing is a must, even if you use an automatic pool cleaner or retain a weekly service.

TESTING
Every pool has characteristics that must be regularly measured and adjusted. Most important are the pH and the level of active sanitizer. By testing these two factors at regular intervals, you'll understand how bather load, weather and product application affect the water. Test your pool water at home two or three times per week. Also, take a sample to your BioGuard Dealer when you open and close your pool, and at least every four weeks during the season. This will help you maintain proper water balance and greatly reduce the potential for problems.

CHEMISTRY
The last step in a total pool maintenance program is applying the right products to your pool water at the right time. This will help you:
Provide a sanitary swimming environment. Balance the water to protect the equipment and pool surfaces. Unbalanced water can permanently damage both. Provide brilliant, sparkling water that's inviting.

Phosphates in Swimming Pools

Stuborn Algae problems could be due to high levels of phosphates in your pool or spa, here's some good info from Ask Alan.

Phosphates can increase the likelihood growth of algae in swimming pool water and can enter the water from such sources as: decaying plant matter, fertilizers, mineral treatment chemicals, contaminated well water, acid rain, contamination with soil, ground water runoff, bird droppings, bather wastes, urine and sweat. Phosphate is a vital plant nutrient and the presence in swimming pool water, even at low concentrations, can cause accelerated algae growth in poorly maintained pools. Pools, that are properly maintained, usually do not have unexpected difficulty controlling algae, even in the presence of phosphates. Higher levels of phosphates can make algae control more difficult and increase the amount of sanitizer required to maintain satisfactory control of algae. It is possible to remove modest levels of phosphates, by treating the pool water with a phosphate precipitating lanthanum product. Very high levels may require so much of the lanthanum compound, as to render this approach impractical, unless there is no option of water replacement. In order for phosphate reducing products to work the concentration of phosphates must be reduced to extremely low levels: parts per billion. The benefits of such product use is adding another layer of protection against algae growth. Proper pool water maintenance is always the first line of defense. Testing for phosphates is not universal, but in those cases where algae control is proving difficult, despite apparently ideal pool water conditions, testing for phosphates and nitrates might be advantageous.

Hayward Sand Filter

1. Flange Clamp Design allows 360° rotation of valve to simplify plumbing.
   
   
2. Integral Top Diffuser ensures even distribution of water over the top of the sand media bed. Full-size internal piping gives a smooth, free-flowing performance.
   
   
3. Unitized, Corrosion-Proof Filter Tank molded of tough, durable colorfast reinforced thermoplastic for dependable, all-weather performance with only minimal care.
   
   
4. Efficient, Multi-Lateral Underdrain Assembly with precision engineered, self-cleaning 360° slotted laterals gives totally balanced flow.
   
   
5. Integral Molded Drain Plug for easy draining of tank, without the loss of sand.
   
   
6. Totally Corrosion-Proof Base is rugged and attractively styled to provide strong, stable support.

For other Pool FAQs check out Hayward, one of the brands English and Lepage recommends, carries and stands behind. Got a specific question? Just ask!